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Our first walk in the town of Konstanz, for example.

We were three: my wife and I and our friend Max, who was born by the banks of the Rhine, knew the treasures to be found along its course, and wanted to share them with us. There it was—wide, blue, and sparkling, with an ample fringe of lush lawns and prosperous villas.

Friendly nods welcomed our timid entrance, and we walked in on a most unusual occasion.

Was it this knowledge that sobered us, or simply the architectural magic of those vaulting arches and steep, somber walls?

IF THERE IS A PATRON SAINT OF TRAVEL WRITERS, he must have foreseen the riches I would bring home from my trip along the Rhine.

He must have decided to relieve me of my notes (I left them in a taxi), to cause my camera to malfunction and double-expose two rolls of film, and to hide a third, potentially useful roll of film in the pocket of a shirt that ended up in the washing machine. What remains in memory is an uncluttered view, the distilled essence of those 12 days' most charming moments and places.

The church was celebrating its act with a sumptuous buffet and large supplies of white wine.

The two newly ordained women, one of whom was in a wheelchair, spoke of thankfulness and dedication.

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